Seeing Trieste on foot: a walking route through the centre

The route at a glance

This walk links the two faces of central Trieste: the Habsburg, mercantile city, flat and orderly, built by the sea in the 18th and 19th centuries, and the old town, much older, which climbs in steps up to San Giusto hill. The first part is on the level; the last part goes uphill.

Tip: wear comfortable shoes with good grip. The stone paving of the squares and waterfront is smooth, and the old-town steps on the final stretch are steep. In summer bring water: there’s little shade on the hill in the middle of the day.

The stops

1. Grand Canal

The walk begins at the Grand Canal, five minutes on foot from Casa Bora. It was dug in the 18th century so that ships could bring goods right into the new district, and today it’s the heart of the Borgo Teresiano, with moored boats and café tables along its banks. At the far end stands the neoclassical façade of Sant’Antonio Taumaturgo; a little further along the bank is the Serbian Orthodox church of San Spiridione, with its blue domes.

2. Ponte Rosso

Halfway along the canal is the Ponte Rosso, one of the most photographed spots in the city. Here a life-size bronze statue of James Joyce strolls across the bridge – the writer lived in Trieste for several years in the early 20th century. The bridge gives you the best view of the canal in both directions: towards the church and towards the sea.

3. Borgo Teresiano

The Borgo Teresiano is named after Empress Maria Theresa, during whose reign the district took shape: straight streets, regular blocks and merchants’ palazzi. Wander a few blocks between Via Roma and Via Dante; on Via Dante you’ll find the statue of Umberto Saba, the poet who ran an antiquarian bookshop in Trieste for many years.

4. Piazza della Borsa

A few minutes through the grid brings you to Piazza della Borsa, the business hub of 19th-century Trieste. The neoclassical Old Stock Exchange, with its columns and statues, dominates the square, together with the Neptune fountain and the column topped by a statue of Leopold I. On the corner is the entrance to the Galleria Tergesteo, a glass-roofed arcade.

5. Piazza Unità d’Italia

A few more steps and the city opens onto the sea: Piazza Unità d’Italia is one of the largest squares facing the sea in Europe. On its three sides stand the Town Hall, the Palazzo del Governo with its mosaic façade and the Lloyd Triestino building; in the middle is the Fountain of the Four Continents. Pause for a few minutes in the centre of the square, facing the gulf.

6. Molo Audace

Cross the waterfront road and walk to the end of the Molo Audace, the long stone pier reaching out into the gulf. It takes its name from the destroyer Audace, the first Italian ship to dock here in November 1918. At the tip there’s a bronze compass rose; behind you, the finest view of Piazza Unità and the city rising towards the hill.

Tip: in a strong Bora the pier is very exposed. If so, stick to the inner streets and have a look at our guide to the Bora in Trieste.

7. Cavana and the old town

Back on the waterfront, turn away from the sea into the Cavana area, the heart of the old town: narrow lanes, small squares and lower, more irregular façades than in the Borgo Teresiano. It’s a lively area today, with small shops and bars – a good place for a coffee before the climb.

8. Arco di Riccardo

A gentle rise brings you to the Arco di Riccardo, a Roman gate from the Augustan age that over time became embedded among the old-town houses. A popular legend links its name to Richard the Lionheart, supposedly held prisoner in the city – a story with no basis in fact, but still happily told.

9. Roman Theatre

Continue to the Roman Theatre, built at the foot of the hill in imperial times and brought back to light in the 20th century. You can see it well from the street, its seating resting against the slope: it’s the clearest trace of Roman Tergeste.

10. San Giusto hill

Now the real climb begins: old-town streets and stairways lead up to San Giusto hill in 10–15 minutes. At the top you’ll find San Giusto Cathedral, with its plain façade and rose window, the remains of the Roman forum and basilica, and San Giusto Castle, whose ramparts look out over rooftops, the port and the gulf.

Getting back

To come down, take the Scala dei Giganti, a grand flight of steps leading to Piazza Goldoni. From there, Corso Italia takes you back on the flat to Piazza della Borsa and the Borgo Teresiano in about 15–20 minutes.

Shorter variations

• Flat only (about 1 hour): stops 1 to 6, from the Grand Canal to the Molo Audace, returning along the waterfront. No climbing, fine for pushchairs.
• Skip the final climb: take a bus up to San Giusto hill (check the route on the Trieste Trasporti website) and do the walk in reverse, downhill all the way to the sea.
• At sunset: do stops 5 to 7 in the late afternoon to catch the light over the gulf from the Molo Audace.

If you’d like to walk beyond the centre, along the sea or up on the Karst, you’ll find more ideas in our guide to walks in Trieste. To plan the rest of your stay, this route forms the core of day one in Trieste in two days.